Dreaming in Green Entrelac Cowl

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Dreaming in Green Entrelac Cowl

Designed By: Miranda Gaines

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The *Dreaming in Green Entrelac Cowl* is worked flat and joined with three 1″ buttons. It is worked in Red Heart Changes, but would also look great in any worsted weight yarn either in one or two colors!

 

Techniques Used:

– Knit & purl

– Cast on & bind off

– Entrelac knitting

– Increasing, decreasing

– Short rows

– Picking up stitches

– Basic crochet chain 

 

Materials

You can find the yarn and needles in my Etsy shop!

Yarn: Red Heart Boutique Changes (87% Acrylic, 12 % Wool, 1% Other Fibers; 187 yds/171 m per 3.5 oz/100 g ball); 1 balls in Jade

Needles: 5mm/US 8 needle

Other Materials: tapestry needle, three 1” buttons (I got my buttons from RustikCabin on Etsy)

Gauge: 18 sts/24 rows = 4″ (10 cm) stockinette, blocked.  Be sure to check your gauge if you don’t want to run out of yarn.

Finished Size: Length 21″ (53.5 cm), Width 8” (20 cm)

 

Abbreviations

CO = cast on

BO = bind off

k = knit

p = purl

p2tog = purl 2 stitches together

pf&b = purl front and back in one stitch

ssk = slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip the second stitch knitwise, replace slipped stitches onto the left hand needle and knit through the back loop of the stitches

st(s) = stitch(es)

s1 wyif = With the working yarn in front, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.

s1 wyib = With the working yarn in back, insert the right needle into the next stitch as if to purl and transfer the stitch from the left needle to the right.

RS = right side of work

WS = wrong side of work

 

Notes on Construction

  • Entrelac knitting begins with base triangles. Then the next set of squares is worked by picking up stitches along the side and working them together with the previous stitches to form the bias knit fabric.
  • Entrelac is worked using short rows. You work some stitches and turn the work and work back without completing a full row of knitting.
  • The slipped stitches make it easier to pick up stitches later in the project.

 

Pattern Stitch Instructions

Base Triangles

Row 1 (RS): K2, turn.

Row 2 (WS): P1, s1 wyif

Row 3: K3, turn

Row 4: P2, s1 wyif

Row 5: K4, turn

Row 6: P3, s1 wyif

Row 7: K5, turn

Row 8: P4, s1 wyif

Row 9: K6, turn

Row 10: P5, s1 wyif

Row 11: K7, turn

Row 12: P6, s1 wyif

Row 13: K8. DO NOT TURN.

Left Edge Triangle

Row 1 (WS): p2, turn

Row 2 (RS): K2, turn

Row 3: Pf&b, p2tog, turn

Row 4: K3, turn

Row 5: Pf&b, p1, p2tog, turn

Row 6: K4, turn

Row 7: Pf&b, p2, p2tog, turn

Row 8: K5, turn

Row 9: Pf&b, p3, p2tog, turn

Row 10: K6, turn

Row 11: Pf&b, p4, p2tog, turn

Row 12: K7, turn

Row 13: Pf&b, p5, p2tog. DO NOT TURN.

Purl Side Rectangles

Using right-hand needle and purl side facing you, pick up and purl 8 sts along the side of the base triangle.  Turn.

Row 1 (RS): K7, s1 wyib, turn

Row 2 (WS): P7, p2tog, turn

Repeat these two rows 6 more times.  DO NOT TURN.

Right Edge Triangle

Using right-hand needle and purl side facing you, pick up and purl 8 sts. Turn.

Row 1 (RS): K7, s1 wyib, turn

Row 2 (WS): P6, p2tog, turn

Row 3: K6, s1 wyib, turn

Row 4: P5, p2tog, turn

Row 5: K5, s1 wyib, turn

Row 6: P4, p2tog, turn

Row 7: K4, s1 wyib, turn

Row 8: P3, p2tog, turn

Row 9: K3, s1 wyib, turn

Row 10: P2, p2tog, turn

Row 11: K2, s1 wyib, turn

Row 12: P1, p2tog, turn

Row 13: K1, s1 wyib, turn

Row 14: P2tog, turn

Knit Rectangles

Slip the remaining st onto the right hand needle.  With RS facing, pick up and knit 7 sts. Turn.

Row 1 (WS): P7, s1 wyif, turn

Row 2 (RS): K7, ssk, turn

Repeat these two rows 6 more times.  DO NOT TURN.  You will not have the extra st on the other knit rectangles so for the other rectangles you would pick up 8 sts.

Top Row Triangles

Worked on knit side after purl side rectangles.  Slip the remaining st onto the right hand needle.  With RS facing, pick up and knit 7 sts, Turn.

Row 1 (WS): P8, turn

Row 2 (RS): K7, ssk, turn

Row 3: P6, p2tog, turn

Row 4: K6, ssk, turn

Row 5: P5, p2tog, turn

Row 6: K5, ssk, turn

Row 7: P4, p2tog, turn

Row 8: k4, ssk, turn

Row 9: p3, p2tog, turn

Row 10: k3, ssk, turn

Row 11: p2, p2tog, turn

Row 12: k2, ssk, turn

Row 13: p1, p2tog, turn

Row 14: k1, ssk, turn

Row 15: p2tog, turn

Row 16: SSK, turn

Leave remaining stitch on needle and pick up and knit for the next triangle.

 

Entrelac-First Row

After you complete the row of base triangles your knitting may look a little funny.  This is the nature of entrelac knitting and is completely normal!

 

 

 

Cowl  Instructions

CO 24 sts

Work Base Triangles 3 times across the row

Work Left Edge Triangle

Work Purl Side Rectangles 2 times across the row

Work Right Edge Triangle

Work Knit Rectangles 3 times across the row

Repeat the purl side rows (left edge triangle, purl side rectangles, and right edge triangles) and knit side rows (right edge triangle) until the piece is desired length.  Make sure that you end with a purl side row.

Work Top Row Triangles 3 times across the row

Cut yarn and thread through last stitch.

Create a buttonhole loop at the base of the top row triangles.  I did three loops.  Each one at the center of the triangles.  With yarn doubled over, and G (4.25 mm) hook, attach yarn and ch 8 sts (or however many that you need to fit the size of button that you have chosen).  Secure the end of the chain close to the same hole as the start of the chain with a slip stitch.

Sew buttons to the base row triangles adjacent to the buttonhole loops that you created.

Weave in ends.

 

You can find me on Ravelry as calmingstitches or email me at calmingstitches@gmail.com if you have any questions about this or any of my other patterns.

 

@ 2015 Calming Stitches.  All Rights Reserved.

Sunset Shawl

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I have a new pattern out this week called Sunset Shawl.  It is a half circular shawl worked from the top down.  It’s a great one to wrap around your shoulders on cooler nights or winter days.  It’s worked in Knitca Superwash yarn, which is available in my Etsy shop.  The pattern starts out with some basic stockinette, garter and seed stitch and then moves into a little more complicated slip stitch pattern.  The edging is a simple cable that is great for people just starting out cabling.  There is a massive increase right before the edging, which creates a feminine ruffle.

The pattern is available in my Etsy shop, on Ravelry and through Craftsy.

Certified Instructor Program

I am now offering knitting and crochet lessons for those of you that are local!  I’m currently taking the first level certificate program from the Craft Yarn Council for both knitting and crochet.  Though it is not a required program in order to teach classes, I feel that it has already helped me to create stellar lesson plans and to overall be a better teacher.

I’m excited about the program and look forward to teaching new people my passion for crochet and knitting!

Felted Dryer Balls

Two months ago I started using my own felted dryer balls.  I wanted to sell them in my Etsy shop, but I wanted to test them out first and see what I thought of them.

What are dryer balls?

For those of you who haven’t heard of these ingenious things before.  They are little balls of felted wool that you throw in your dryer when you are drying your clothes.

What are the benefits of using dryer balls?

I’ve heard a lot of claims about dryer balls.

  • They reduce the time that laundry is in the dryer
  • They reduce static
  • They produce less wrinkles in your clothes
  • You’ll get less lint in your lint trap
  • They are eco-friendly because you can stop using dryer sheets

After my own testing, I have found all of these things to be mostly true.

I have three young children ages 5 and under so I do a lot of laundry and my loads are usually quite large.  Because of this, I usually use 6 dryer balls per load.  Most people recommend 3-4 for small and medium loads and 4-6 for large and extra large loads.

I have found that my clothes take less time in the dryer. About 5-10 minutes less per load on average, which is a significant amount when you take into consideration how many loads of laundry that I do in a month.  So it does save my family hydro costs.

I don’t really find that it reduces static all that much UNLESS I put a little bit of water on each of the dryer balls before running the load in the dryer.

I have found less wrinkles and softer clothing after using the dryer balls.  I find that they aerate the laundry as it is drying.

I haven’t found that they produce less lint.  I find about the same amount in my dryer tray after each load, but I also don’t think that this is a deal breaker in using them.

I haven’t used dryer sheets since making my own dryer balls and I don’t I will be going back.  This saves our family money on buying the dryer sheets.  Hooray!

Dryer balls are great eco friendly way of drying your clothes.  The best would be to air dry outside, but not all of us are able to do that.  I live in an area where we get a lot of snow and rain for most of the year.  Therefore, I NEED to use a dryer a lot of the time.

What are the downsides of using dryer balls?

There is one downside to dryer balls that I’ve come up with.  They are pretty noisy banging around in the dryer.  But, I’m willing to overlook it.  It’s never so noisy that it wakes my kids up and we can still watch TV in the next room.

Where to get dryer balls?

I have started selling felted dryer ball in my Etsy shop.  If you want to buy them, then you can head over to Calming Stitches to purchase them.

Or you could make them for yourself.  They are pretty easy to make.

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How to make dryer balls?

What you need:

  • 100% Wool yarn.  This CANNOT be superwash and must be 100% wool in order to felt properly
  • Tapestry needle
  • Scissors
  • Pantyhose
  • Scrap yarn of cotton/acrylic nature that won’t felt

I have found that about 110 yards of yarn makes a good sized dryer ball.  You just wind the yarn into a tight ball.  Until it’s about the size of a baseball.  Then you take the end of the yarn and put it on a tapestry needle.  You’ll pull that end through the ball and trim it when you are done.

You just cut the leg of an old pair of pantyhose and load it up with your dryer balls.  It will look like a big caterpillar.  Tie pieces of the cotton/acrylic yarn between each dryer ball so that they are separated.

Felting:

Throw your dryer ball caterpillar into your washing machine.  I usually run it through twice in the washing machine and then throw it in the dryer on the hottest setting.

You can add scent to your dryer balls by using pure essential oil.  You would just add a few drops to each ball.

 

Paint the Town Red Shawl

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I published my first knitting pattern yesterday!  It was a very exciting moment to hit publish on Ravelry and list it on Etsy.  This was a four month project from start to finish.  I always knew that designing was labour intensive but actually going through the process has made me realize that creating patterns really is a labour of love.

Let me first walk you through the design itself and then I want to talk a little bit about the process for those of you who may want to start designing but have no idea where to start.

Paint the Town Red2

The Paint the Town Red Shawl is a triangular shawl that is worked from the top down with increases at the edges and the center spine of the shawl. Paint the Town Red starts out with an easy lace section to warm your fingers up and then moves into a more complicated stitch pattern and finally into a border section that is knit perpendicularly to the shawl body.

The first part of my design process was finding the yarn that I wanted to work with.  I decided on KnitPicks Gloss Lace in Fiesta.  Red is one of my favourite colours and I really wanted to incorporate it into my first design.  This one is as much for me as it is for anyone who decides to buy and knit it.

Next I had to find stitch patterns that I thought worked well together.  This took some time of knitting swatches until I decided on three stitch patterns.  I also decided on the needle size that I felt gave me the fabric that I liked.

Then, I had to fit these stitch patterns into the shawl body.  Designing is basically using math and creativity at the same time.  I had a set number of stitches that needed to fit into the body of the shawl.  I had to figure out how to center it and where the repeats should occur.  It’s a lot of work.  Of course, I was knitting and figuring out the charts at the same time.  In my next design, I would chart the entire shawl out first along with doing the written directions and THEN knit it.  I think I would catch more errors myself and enjoy the process more.

Then once it was all knit up and blocked I sent it off to three test knitters and a tech editor.  They all had some great ideas about readability of the pattern and it was nice for me to see other people knit my shawl design for the first time.

I may not sell a single copy of the pattern or I may sell a whole bunch.  At this point I have no idea.  Its like gambling.  I put a lot of time and money into it and hopefully other people will enjoy knitting it as much as I did.